Sunday, September 1, 2013

Tourist Duties: Casa Blanca y Isla Negra



Well, I finally feel like I’m back at school: the calendar has filled up and the homework is piling on.

But that doesn’t mean that my duties as a foreigner can be ignored either. That means visiting. Today our program coordinator, Carolina, Emanuel (her bf), and Joel (our classy driver who makes me think of Higgins from Agatha Christie’s Poirot) took us to Casa Blanca, a famous wine valley about half an hour from Valpo. The first vineyard was up on a hill, so despite the clouds we had a nice view of the rows of grape vines. We had a good explanation of the harvest, fermentation, and storing of the wine (did you know good wine barrels made of French Oak coast 1,000 bucks a pop? Empty? And you can only use them 3 times? I was impressed). Then we moved onto the tasting, where we learned how to change and access the flavors of the wine by smelling, swirling, and taking in air as we drank. We tried a sauvignon blanc, a pinot noir, and a sauvignon cabernet (French is finally useful for something). I guess the cabernet is the most Chilean, but Emily and I both liked the blanc best. And now I feel ready to serve a dinner party, since I know at least 3 kinds of good wine and what kind of food they go with. Classy education.




We visited another vineyard briefly to do the same sans tasting (I think Carolina was testing stuff out to get a feel for future visits). The main building had a neat wooden and terracotta roof, and we stared a little bit at the Brazilean tourists before heading to Quisco for lunch and more adventures.

The beach town of Quisco is home to many restaurants with many seafood options. We enjoyed Abalone and clams before our main dishes. For me, I tried a crab casserole. Heavy, but quite good. With some coffee to round everything off we were ready to hit the main attraction of Quisco: Isla Negra, the home of Pablo Neruda.

As the Poetry Foundation says, Pablo Neruda is probably the most internationally famous poet that North Americans forget about. Probably because he was a communist. He also has a house in Valpo, but Isla Negra, where he spent his last days, is the more famous of the two. The stone walls of the house are the real deal, made of non-standard rocks with occasional additions of mosaics or glass bottles, and the interior is covered in beautiful wood paneling and furniture. And then there’s his collections. Whether it’s the mermaids from the prows of ships, funny-shaped bottles, shoes, hats, butterflies, Brazilian masks, or seashells, intriguing objects filled up the beautiful rooms overlooking the sea. We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside, but take a look on Google Images, it’s worth seeing. Outside we ogled the view and saw Neruda and his wife’s graves. Very cool.







On our way home we stopped to see what used to be the world’s largest swimming pool. Which, ironically, is next to the ocean…oh mankind.


The drive back through the countryside was also beautiful, what with the sunset and the high dose of urban living we have been receiving. Hills, cows, horses, trees, flowers…did my heart good.

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