So, it’s been a month since I have posted, or about a fourth
of my time here. Don’t
worry, I’m duly ashamed of myself. Four months is also much too short.
A lot
has changed in the last month, for the better. I feel comfortable in my host
family now, even being so bold as to ask after my pants that disappear into the
laundry. My host mom and I chat often over breakfast, on things ranging from
her past to gay rights to child rearing and strange Chilean fruit. By the way,
chirimoya is chirimoya in English. It’s also delicious.
The weekend we got back from Chiloe my host sister and her
boyfriend invited everybody to accompany them to the Ramada, or fair. I was the
only one who accepted, which was potentially awkward but turned out fine. The
fair, which happens for Fiestas Patrias, is basically full of food, kites, and
gambling games. Paula actually won a bottle of wine, thanks to a rat that liked
her number. Mostly we counted kites that had gotten stuck in trees and enjoyed
a walk in the sunshine.
I have made a few more treats for the family: brownies and
bush cake. The bush cake, which is vegan, absolutely shocked my host mom. I
guess dark chocolate cake is unusual here, and the idea of eating something
without eggs in it was entirely novel. That said, the cake was a hit and she
told me I wasn’t allowed to leave the country without giving her the recipe.
The brownies also turned out nicely, although they were less mysterious all
around. I have also started making myself oatmeal in the mornings, which proved
another shock for mi madre. My habitual method of
water+oatmeal+banana+vanilla+cinnamon+microwave left her staring…hot bananas?
Hot oatmeal? Pouring cold milk on it afterwards? Clearly I’m a bad Chilean, but
I do like hot oatmeal. And hot bananas. I told her we had banana bread and her
eyes got even bigger.
My film class has been focusing on the coup here in the
70’s. Fascinating, and so powerful. If you have time I would suggest watching a
documentary on youtube called Shock Doctrine (it ties Chile in with the USSR,
Thatcher, Reagan…and 9/11 of the US. Perhaps too neat, but interesting). In
class we have seen a documentary called No
that covered the campaign to de-elect Pinochet, as well as Ciudad de los Fotografos (about the photographers in Santiago
during the protests) and Nostalgia de la
Luz(raw metaphors between the astronomy and observatories of the Atacama
desert, and the crimes of Pinochet. Did you know there are still groups of old
women walking the desert looking for the bodies of their loved ones? Very
powerful.) In my culture class we also watched Machuca again, and this time I have a list of learned cuss words to
show for it. Plus notes on the subjunctive verb form.
Another interesting point brought up in culture class has
been the Vicaría de la Solidaridad, a group founded by the Catholics after its
ecumenical predecessor was outlawed that aimed to work against the social crimes
of Pinochet. Pinochet certainly didn’t like them recording crimes, giving legal
help, encouraging unions, etc, but he also couldn’t very well take down the
Catholic Church. Go Christians. There’s a Chilean movie series based on this
group, I’m going to try to get my paws on it soon.
Last week Emily and I went to the open air museum in Valpo.
We found it alright, and were only slightly intimidated by ‘Zeus’, the enormous
boxer with a huge chain around his neck that the owner calmly called off when
we tried to get up the sketchy alley that led to the museum. It was sunny, we
were up on the cerro bellavista, I found a painted moose…it was great. The
street art was really neat, we got to wander about and take photos. When we came
down we bought ice cream and ate it in a plaza. Chirimoya and Lucuma are both
fruits…I haven’t tried lucuma in the flesh, but the ice cream flavor is good!
Zumba class continues to shake things up…I’m starting to
know the routines now, but that’s not to say that they don’t still kick my butt
from time to time. Our teacher continues to scream and whip her hair around
like a banshee. It’s…motivating.
I’ve been going to a small group with my church, getting to
know some gringas and chilenas better. Last Friday Mollie and I made a 2 layer
cake for a birthday party. It kinda fell apart when we took it out of the pan,
but my host mom helped us flip it onto the appropriate plate and we glued it
back together with chocolate whipped cream (yes, that’s a thing). Then we
decorated it and set out. We walked uphill and down, and took it even through
the metro (a micro would have been the end of us all). Thanks to Mollie’s
strong wrists and a little luck, we arrived an hour later with an intact
surprise cake. We ate tacos (the US kids miss Mexican food…a lot), gave
presents, took photos in the sun, watched a soccer game, and went to youth group.
We then proceeded to McDonalds to play 10 fingers and eat icecream with fries.
Afterwards we went to a friend’s house to collapse, but not before visiting
with her parents and eating another birthday cake. In short, it was a long and
fun night.
Sunday I went with a couple of the gringa girls to a Baptist
retreat. It’s a really small church, and it was great to meet host grandparents
and chat with people. Good food was also shared. Alongside the hallelujahs and
dance worship, there was also a time where the pastor gave messages to the
people. Much to my surprise, he walked right up to me, and told me just what I
needed to hear. I don’t think this man even knew my name – it was a gift from
God.
Another blessing has been a bible study that meets at school
every week. The leader is serious about evangelization. I watched him get his
head bitten off today over opposing homosexual marriage, but he goes up and
talks to everyone and invites them to the bible study. His studies have been
challenging and encouraging, and I thank God for what he is doing. He’s part of
a chain of college students who lead studies in all of the 8 universities in
Valpo and Viña, and they plaster posters all over the place. It’s beautiful to
see them working so.
I guess that’s the speedy version of my life as of late. Now
off to prepare a presentation on Chilean economy for tomorrow! Besitos!
